Recipes worth shelling out for

Everyday Kitchen -

Lobster is cheaper than I've seen it in years, so let's make hay while the sun shines.

My mom gets a dozen freshly cooked lobsters every Mother's Day (from a sibling who beat me to the idea) and her game plan is simple. She and my stepdad start with at least two meals of tails, claws and bodies, just as they are, followed by two meals of potato salad with chopped lobster. Any leftovers are divided into modest portions and frozen for a chilly day in the fall when there's no lobster to be found.

That's a sound approach, but with the price within reach, maybe you'd like to try something different.

Boiling lobsters

First, let's get the basic cooking out of the way.

I refuse to get into the killing debate. If you choose not to eat lobsters I respect that, but if you eat 'em, you gotta kill 'em, so don't talk to me about cruelty.

All right, I admit I don't like to chop them up while they're still alive, although I've done it and enjoyed the result. Today we'll keep it simple, and boiling couldn't be simpler.

Bring lots of water in a big, preferably heavy-bottomed, pot to a boil. Throw in a couple of quartered lemons, a spoonful of salt, a big handful of mixed fresh herbs and a few bay leaves. I'm not sure the lemon and herbs make much difference to the taste of the lobster, but it sure makes my kitchen smell good.

Add the lobsters, head first, and get the cover on fast. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, depending on their size. They are bright red and the little legs pull off easily when cooked. Drain and cool five or 10 minutes.

Lobster casserole

So rich you will swoon with pleasure, this dish is best appreciated a little less than piping hot, but not cold. What a great choice to bring to a special potluck or deck party. This recipe makes eight modest servings. This will work with almost any cooked seafood, by the way.

1 lb. coarsely chopped cooked lobster (about four lobsters)

3 tbsp. each butter and flour

1-1/2 cups whipping cream

1-1/2 cups clam juice or chicken broth or a mixture

1/2 cup dry sherry

2 tbsp chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 tsp sweet paprika, smoked if available (divided)

pinch each salt and pepper

Crust:

1-1/2 cups crushed buttery crackers

3 tbsp. melted butter

Spread lobster evenly in the bottom of a greased medium-sized casserole dish. Melt butter and flour together and cook a few seconds. Whisk in cream and broth and bring to a boil. Simmer until thickened and smooth. Whisk in sherry, parsley and half the paprika. Add salt and pepper to taste - I like lots of pepper. Pour sauce over lobster. Combine cracker crumbs and butter and add remaining paprika. Sprinkle evenly over top. Bake at 425 F uncovered 15 to 20 minutes or until bubbling hot and topping is golden brown.

Lobster bowties

What a luxurious way to serve pasta. Substitute fettuccine or linguine if you prefer, but I love those little bowties. Collect any juices from the lobsters as they drain and cool and as you dismember them. Use a rolling pin to get every last bit of goodness out of those little legs. Add the tomalley if you like (I do) and the coral, of course. Tarragon perfectly complements lobster but if you can't get fresh, don't fret, substitute fresh basil or add a pinch of dried tarragon to the olive oil at the beginning.

2 tbsp olive oil

pinch red pepper flakes

1 tbsp minced onion

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 28-oz can diced tomatoes, drained

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 tsp each salt and pepper

1/4 cup each chopped fresh Italian parsley and tarragon

meat from two cooked, lobsters, coarsely chopped

1 lb. pasta bowties, cooked according to package directions

Heat oil in a large pot. Add red pepper flakes and onion and fry one minute. Add garlic and cook until fragrant. Add drained tomatoes, wine, salt and pepper and simmer until thickened slightly - about 15 minutes. Stir in parsley, tarragon, lobster meat, and cooked pasta and serve immediately.

Lobster rolls

Does it seem wasteful to serve lobster on sandwiches? You won't think so when you taste these. The secret is horseradish - what a fantastic flavour boost. Buy the best rolls you can find - regular hotdog buns just won't cut it, although that's the shape you want. These are rich and make a fabulous special lunch with a light salad.

1/2 cup mayonnaise (not salad dressing)

1 stalk each of celery and green onion, finely chopped

1 tbsp lemon juice

1 tbsp each chopped fresh tarragon, dill and Italian parsley

2 tsp prepared horseradish

1 tsp grainy or Dijon mustard

pinch each salt and pepper

1 lb coarsely chopped cooked lobster

8 oblong dinner rolls - hotdog bun style

soft butter

shredded lettuce

Combine mayonnaise, celery, onion, lemon juice, tarragon, dill, parsley, horseradish, mustard salt, and pepper. Gently fold in lobster. Split rolls and spread both sides of each generously with butter. Broil until golden brown, top with shredded lettuce and spoon in the lobster mixture.

Finally, let's get the tomalley question out of the way. Yes, there have been health advisories and even warnings in some regions about eating that creamy green paste in the lobster body. Since it's mostly liver, and the liver's job is filtering toxins out of the body, it may be a gathering spot for nasty chemicals. Announcements talk about the bad things that happen to children and sick people and when you eat too much of it, but lobster tomalley isn't on my table every day so I indulge. It's up to you.

Cynthia Stone is a writer, editor and teacher in St. John's. Questions may be sent to her c/o The Telegram, P.O. Box 5970, St. John's, NL, A1C 5X7.