I want some mo' samosas

Everyday Kitchen - You can buy a variety of ready-made samosas in just about any grocery store now - even small delis have them - so there must be a demand. And what's not to like in the delicious little stuffed pastry triangles from countries far to the east of us?

I can't seem to get enough of them, even though I try not to buy too much instant food - quick and easy can be dangerous if you're counting calories.

Last week when I came across frozen lentil samosas in the grocery store, there was no resisting. I should have checked the price tag, though, because when I got home and looked at the bill, I had a nasty turn. They weren't $4.99 as I'd thought, but $14.99.

Paying that much for a whole salmon or a roast of beef I can live with, but for a product made from the cheapest ingredients on the planet? If I hadn't already opened the bag and popped four in the oven I would have brought them back.

They were delicious with store-bought chutney, by the way, but still not worth the price.

I should have known better. I can almost as easily - and, I'll guarantee you, as cheaply - make my own. So, instead of beating myself up any longer, I got to work in the kitchen and made a batch of each of these recipes in one afternoon. Based on the prices at the local grocery store, my freezer is now the most valuable thing I own.

If you've never had or heard of samosas, and even if you aren't fond of what we consider traditional curry flavour, you will find something here to satisfy your palate.

Fry samosas in about 1/2-inch of vegetable oil in a hot pan until golden brown on each side, or deep fry if you prefer. Top with a light sprinkle of coarse salt and serve with yogurt or sour cream for dipping, or with a little chutney or bottled plum or sweet-and-sour sauce. They are also fantastic with Newfoundland style chow-chow or tomato pickles - go figure.

Samosa pastry

This pastry and the filled samosas freeze well for up to three months.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 tbsp. oil or clarified butter

3-4 tablespoons ice-cold water

In a food processor, pulse flour and salt to mix. Add oil and pulse until sandy in texture. With the processor running, slowly pour in ice water until dough forms. Wrap tightly and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. Cut dough in quarters. Working with one ball at a time, roll into an 8-inch square on a floured surface. Cut in quarters. Using your fingertip, paint the edges with cold water. Place about 1 tbsp. filling on each square and fold in half to form a triangle. Pinch closed firmly. Repeat with remaining dough to form 16 samosas. They can be frozen at this stage; cook without thawing. These fillings can all be frozen as they are as well, so you can make some more samosas whenever you want.

Spinach and lentil samosas

Substitute any greens you like for the spinach. These are particularly good with a sweet and spicy dip.

2 tbsp. vegetable oil or clarified butter

1/4 cup hot curry powder

1 tsp. each ground cumin

1/2 tsp. ground coriander

Pinch each ground cinnamon, cayenne pepper and ginger

1 medium onion, finely diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

2 cups cooked green lentils (rinsed and drained; canned lentils are fine)

1 box frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

1 tsp. each salt and fresh ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large frying pan and add curry, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cayenne, and ginger. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until you can smell the spices.

Add onion, garlic and ginger and cook 2 minutes. Stir in lentils and spinach and cook until nearly dry. Cool to room temperature before filling the pastry (see recipe on page E1).

Chickpea filling

If using a food processor, be sure not to puree the chickpeas - then it's just as well to make hummus by adding garlic and olive oil. You can buy garam masala in most grocery stores in the spice section. These are good with chili sauce or some other spicy dip.

1 large can chickpeas, rinsed and drained, then minced in a food processor or by hand

1/2 cup cold water

1 medium onion, minced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 large tomato, finely diced

1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger root, grated

1 tsp. each salt, pepper, coriander and garam masala

1/2 tsp. red chili flakes (more or less to taste)

1 tbsp. vegetable oil

Place ingredients in a frying pan and cook until all the liquid has evaporated. Cool to room temperature and form samosas as above.

Meat filling

These are delicious with plain yogurt or on their own. I made samosas once with ground lamb and people swooned, but it is just too hard to find. These are almost as fabulous.

1 tbsp. vegetable oil

1 tsp. each coriander and cumin

1/2 tsp. red chili flakes

1/3 lb. each lean ground beef and lean ground pork

1 medium onion, minced

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 thumb-sized piece fresh gingerroot, grated

1 tomato, finely diced

1/2 tsp. salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large frying pan and add coriander, cumin and chili flakes. Add beef and pork and brown well.

Add onion, garlic and ginger and fry until fragrant.

Add tomato, salt and pepper and cook together until mixture is cooked through and all the moisture has evaporated. Cool thoroughly before filling pastry - see above.

Potato and pea filling

This recipe is probably the first samosa I ever tasted and I think it might still be my favourite. Dice the potatoes finely but don't mash them - the texture won't be as nice.

2 tbsp. vegetable oil

1 tsp. each cumin, coriander, and garam masala

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

1 medium onion, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 thumb-sized piece fresh gingerroot, grated

1 jalapeno or other small green chili, minced (with seeds if you like more heat)

4 yellow potatoes, finely diced and cooked in salted boiling water until barely tender

1 cup frozen small peas

1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper

1/4 cup hot chicken broth or water

2 tbsp. lemon juice

small bunch fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped

Heat oil in large frying pan and add cumin, coriander, garam masala and cayenne pepper. Fry 2 minutes then add onion and cook until fragrant. Add garlic, ginger and jalapeno and cook another minute or two, until fragrant. Add potatoes, peas, salt, pepper, broth and lemon juice. Cover and simmer 5 minutes; remove cover and continue cooking until all the moisture has evaporated. Stir in cilantro and cool to room temperature before filling the samosas, as above.

Cynthia Stone is a writer, editor and teacher in St. John's. Questions may be sent to her c/o The Telegram, P.O. Box 5970, St. John's, NL, A1C 5X7.