Finally, a berry, berry good column

Everyday Kitchen -

This is it, the last time a fresh berry graces our tables that didn't come from the grocery store. And what a berry it is.

Partridgeberries contribute tons of flavour and last longer than just about any other berry, both in the refrigerator and frozen. Their only shortcoming is they are too tart to serve right off the bush - hardly worth speaking about when they offer so much.

Baked salmon with partridgeberry sauce

Salmon being such a strongly flavoured fish, this is a natural pairing. Big, bold, and beautiful, this dish cries out to be all alone on a white plate. Serve it with a bright salad in a separate bowl - think simple. If you are going for over-the-top elegance, strain the sauce and drizzle sparingly on fish right on the serving plate. Use any vinegar you like, but an herbal note is welcome. Serves 3 or 4.

Sauce:

2 shallots, minced

1 tbsp. butter

1/2 cup fresh or frozen partridgeberries

1/4 cup port or dessert wine

2 tbsp. sugar

1 tbsp. tarragon or herb-flavoured vinegar

pinch each salt and pepper

2 tsp. soft butter (preferably unsalted but if not, don't add any salt)

Salmon:

1 tbsp. each Dijon mustard and olive oil

1 lb. salmon fillet, skin on

1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper

Sweat shallots in butter until soft. Add partridgeberries, wine, sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper and simmer 10 minutes. Strain if you wish. Swirl in butter.

For the salmon, combine mustard, oil, salt and pepper. Place fillet skin side down on a greased baking sheet and spread on mustard mixture. Bake at 450 F until fish is barely cooked through - 8 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness. Drizzle sauce over top.

Swedish meatballs in partridgeberry gravy

"Why would you put berries on a perfectly good meatball?" So asked my nephew, the fruit hater. He's right about one thing ... leave out the partridgeberry jam and this recipe is still fabulous.

You might wonder if I made a mistake because the meat mixture will be loose, but refrigerate half an hour or form the meatballs and freeze 20 minutes before cooking. Odd shapes don't bother me at all, especially when they deliver such tender texture and delectable taste.

These are great with rice, noodles or mashed potatoes, but what a conversation starter at a party.

If you don't know how to make partridgeberry jam, combine berries and sugar in a 2-to-1 ratio in a heavy pot and add a splash of orange or apple juice.

Bring to a boil and taste the liquid. If your eyes water, add a little more sugar.

Cook, stirring often, until berries collapse and mixture thickens - it will start to burble in big glub-glubs when it's done.

1 cup bread crumbs

3/4 cup milk

1 lb. each lean ground pork and beef

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp. each salt and pepper

1/4 tsp. allspice

pinch each nutmeg, ground cloves and ground ginger

2 tbsp. each vegetable oil and butter

Partridgeberry gravy:

1 small onion, minced

3 tbsp. butter

2 tbsp. flour

1-1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1/4 cup each whipping and sour cream

1/4 cup partridgeberry jam (preferably tart)

salt and pepper to taste

handful chopped fresh Italian parsley or dill (optional)

Soak crumbs in milk 20 minutes then combine with pork, beef, egg, Worcestershire, salt, pepper and spices. Mix lightly and form meatballs about 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Fry in oil and butter, turning so they are evenly browned all around and cooked through the centre. Set aside. For the gravy, fry onion in butter until soft. Stir in flour and cook a few seconds.

Whisk in broth and cook until thick and smooth and reduced by about one-third. Reduce heat and whisk in creams and jam; heat but do not boil.

Taste for seasoning and strain if you prefer a smooth sauce.

Pour over meatballs, sprinkle herbs on top and serve to 6 or 8 open-minded friends.

Partridgeberry streusel biscuit cake

Each piece of this is like a buttered tea biscuit with the jam already on it. Serve warm right out of the oven for the biggest oohs and aahs, or heat in the microwave. This is great for breakfast or with ice cream for dessert.

2 cups flour less 1 tbsp.

2/3 cup sugar

1 tbsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. salt

5 oz. unsalted butter, not too cold

1 cup milk

1 egg

1 tsp. vanilla

1 cup tart partridgeberry jam

Streusel topping:

2/3 cup large-cut rolled oats

1/2 cup brown sugar

3 tbsp. cool butter

Whisk or sift together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut in butter - mixture should be mealy. Whisk together milk, egg and vanilla and stir into dry ingredients just enough to moisten.

Spread in a greased 9 X 11-inch baking dish.

Spread jam carefully over biscuit base. Combine oats and sugar and rub in butter with your fingertips; sprinkle evenly on top. Bake at 350 F for 30 minutes, or until a tester in the middle comes out clean.

Partridgeberry sorbet

Here's a quickie you will appreciate after a big meal. Partridgeberries and gin seem to have a natural affinity for each other, or maybe I have a natural affinity for gin, not sure. This one is just for you - find something else for the kids.

1/2 cup water

1 cup sugar

3 cups fresh or frozen partridgeberries

1/4 cup gin

Bring water to a boil and add sugar, stirring until dissolved; cool to room temperature. Combine with partridgeberries and gin and puree in a food processor. Pour into a shallow dish and freeze 2 to 3 hours, stirring the mixture at least 4 times to keep the texture granular instead of icy.

Cynthia Stone is a writer, editor and teacher in St. John's. Questions may be sent to her c/o The Telegram, P.O. Box 5970, St. John's, NL, A1C 5X7.