Coco rugbrød from New World Sourdough.
New World Sourdough by Bryan Ford
Our cookbook of the week is New World Sourdough by Bryan Ford. Over the next three days, we’ll feature more recipes from the book and an interview with the author.
Since Bryan Ford first shared his recipe for sourdough pan de coco (coconut bread) on his blog in 2018, it has become his calling card. When it came to writing his debut cookbook, New World Sourdough , he knew he wanted to represent the classic Honduran bread, but not repeat it. The result of his experimentation is this coco rugbrød — a merging of Honduran and Danish baking traditions — and a choco pan de coco.
The pan de coco commonly found in Honduras — served “next to a bowl of hot sopa de caracol, or with a morning coffee” — is usually dense, says Ford, and made with harina integral (whole-wheat flour). In this way, it shares something in common with Danish rugbrød, which is similarly hefty, but packed with seeds and made with rye flour.
“I had been meaning to make a whole-wheat pan de coco recipe. And during the process of recipe testing, I went down a rabbit hole of, ‘Why is Danish rye bread a thing people want to make in California, or New York?’ Is it the texture? Is it trendy? What is it?,” says Ford. “So I came up with this coco one with big chunks of coconut, quinoa, whole-wheat and rye flour, and gave it a similar look.”
60 g mature sourdough starter
100 g bread flour
20 g whole-wheat flour
100 g warm water
Final Dough Mix:
200 g coconut milk
100 g water
200 g levain
250 g whole-wheat flour
200 g all-purpose flour
25 g oat flour
25 g rye flour
50 g sunflower seeds
28 g light brown sugar
28 g coconut oil, plus more for preparing the loaf tin and coating the loaf
10 g salt
200 g shredded coconut
150 g quinoa
To build the levain: In a tall jar or medium bowl, mix the mature starter, flours and warm water until incorporated. Cover with a lid or clean kitchen towel and leave in a warm place for 3 to 4 hours, or until doubled in size. You can use your levain immediately, or refrigerate it for 12 hours to use later or the next day.
To make the final dough mix:
1. In a small microwave-safe bowl or a saucepan, combine the coconut milk and water. Warm slightly in the microwave (or on the stovetop in a small pan). Make sure the mixture isn’t boiling or too hot to the touch. Transfer to a large bowl.
2. Add the levain and dissolve it in the warm coconut water mixture.
3. Using your hands, mix in the flours, sunflower seeds, brown sugar, coconut oil, salt, shredded coconut and quinoa (see note) until incorporated.
4. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead it with your palm until smooth.
5. Transfer the dough to a clean, large bowl and let ferment for 5 or 6 hours. Cover the dough and refrigerate it to ferment in a cold environment for up to 12 hours.
To shape and proof the dough:
1. Lightly coat a loaf tin with coconut oil. Set aside.
2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and shape the dough into a log using a tension roll (see note). Place the log horizontally into the prepared loaf tin. Let the dough proof for 3 to 4 hours until spongy and soft to the touch, but not sticky.
To bake the bread:
1. Thirty minutes before the proof is complete, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
2. Baste the loaf with coconut oil and top with the coconut and quinoa.
3. Bake for 40 minutes, or until golden brown. You may need to rotate your pan halfway through the baking time. Some ovens have hotspots to watch for and you will learn over time as you bake how evenly your oven bakes things. Hot spots are typically at the back corners of the oven, so if these begin to get dark before other parts of the bread, you should rotate the loaf to get an even colour. This bread is BEST when eaten hot out of the oven.
Yield: 1 loaf
Notes: To mix the dough, combine the ingredients in a medium bowl. Using your hands, squeeze everything together and then turn the dough out onto a work surface. Knead the dough using the palm of your hand to push it forward and then your fingers to pull it back toward your hand. Repeat this process until you have a smooth surface. Don’t be afraid to rip this dough while you knead with your palm and then bring it back together again.
To shape the dough, flour a work surface if you feel that the dough is too sticky or too difficult to shape. There is no amount of flour that can be too little or too much — do what works for the work surface and your ability to deal with the dough. Pat down the dough into a narrow square or rectangle. Use your pinky fingers to pull the dough into itself and push outward to create tension. Repeat this process until the dough is rolled tightly. If the dough is not rolled tightly enough, use the palm of your hand to gently pat down the seam and seal it.
Excerpted with permission from New World Sourdough: Artisan Techniques for Creative Homemade Fermented Breads; with Recipes for Pan de Coco, Bagels, Beignets and More by Bryan Ford. Text © 2020 Bryan Ford. Published in 2020 by Quarry Books, an imprint of The Quarto Group.
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