The diner. What started in the early 20th century as a streamlined dining experience for weary travellers on the newly-paved highways and byways of America now offers a nostalgic and comforting experience. Those red and white checkered baskets piled high with french fries, the jukeboxes, the milkshakes.
From 50’s-style diners housed in chrome dining cars to high-end burger joints and pricey pop-ups, chances are if you order a burger and fries it’s coming in a plastic wicker basket lined with that iconic red and white paper. These days, diner combos are seldomly seen not wrapped in their gingham cape.
It’s no different in Paradise at The Burger House, which opened at the end of July 2020 at 978 Kenmount Rd. in the space which was once occupied by Charlie’s Steak House (in fact, until Oct. 31st of last year you could still redeem Charlie’s gift cards there).
On a cold Tuesday evening in January, I trekked to Paradise with my partner and my parents in search of a good burger.
When we walked in the place was empty — the smiling server was vacuuming so at first we questioned if dine-in was available during these COVID times. Lucky for us, like those weary diner patrons of days gone by who needed a good meal on the road, it was.
The decor at The Burger House is reminiscent of the steakhouse that used to occupy the space with exposed beams and a bit of roadhouse decor. Overall it has a pretty generic vibe with a few high tops and booths — but you’re not coming here for the vibe; you’re here for the beef.
The diner, by definition, is something utilitarian — a functional eatery meant to get you in and get you out. The Burger House is definitely a diner, save for the partitioned part of the eatery which serves as the bar where there are a few VLTS and a table or two.
Orders are taken at the cash, and they are picked up there, too, when your number is called. The service was pleasant and punctual.
The menu at The Burger House is obviously dominated by burgers with at least 15 different iterations, in addition to hot dogs, wings, fish and chips and a kids’ menu.
All the burgers are the same price: $14 for stand-alone burgers and $18 for the burger basket with fries, coleslaw and a drink (a selection of Pepsi products are available).
I appreciated that when the server was taking our order she asked each of us if we actually wanted the coleslaw — as a relatively divisive side, it makes sense to ask in order to avoid food wastage.
First up, she called us to the cash to pick up our appetizer, a side of Onion Rings ($7) for the table. They were hot and crispy, you could tell they weren’t made in-house but it didn’t matter, we polished them off quick.
Then the main event: burgers!
Both my parents opted for the Classic Cheeseburger basket ($18) with 1/2lb fresh ground beef patty which was perfectly smashed and had the right amount of charring on the edges, along with two slices of cheddar cheese, bacon, tomato, onion, lettuce, ketchup, mustard and mayo. Strangely there was no pickle on the classic, which to me is a fundamental accoutrement of a standard burger.
There was, however, a pickle on my partner’s Burger House Signature basket ($18) which came with two 1/4lb beef patties, perfectly slow-cooked caramelized onions, three slices of cheddar, sliced dill pickle, mustard, mayo and ketchup. A great burger all around, not too sloppy and just the right amount of condiments — the ultimate test of a well-prepared burger is if you can eat it with one hand without the contents sliding out after the first bite.
I went with the French Onion Soup Burger basket ($18) that came out with a generous amount of melted swiss cheese that basically encased the delicious caramelized onions and mushrooms and the 1/2lb ground beef patty. It was sloppy, but the flavours really did encapsulate a bowl of French Onion Soup.
We all agreed the accompanying fries were great, hand-cut and crispy, but the most disappointing part of the burger basket was actually the fresh brioche bun. They were cold. If they had been toasted these burgers would have been perfection.
Is The Burger House an oasis in Paradise? No, it’s not, but they sure know how to put together a damn good burger basket.
Those who live in the area will appreciate a good quick meal at a local restaurant, and for those who don’t, it’s worth the journey for patties.
The Details:
Phone Number: (709) 221-2123
Hours: Monday-Sunday 12-8 p.m.
Accessibility: Barrier-free doors and accessible washroom with a variety of seating options from low tables to high tops.
Noise level: Average
Reservations: Burger House does not take reservations
Take-away: Yes
Meal for four with sodas, tip included: $107
Gabby Peyton is a freelance food writer based in St. John’s.
