Flapper pie is not as well known as other classic pies, but it should be.
Essentially, creamy custard is poured into a graham cracker crust and a lid of meringue is carefully swooped on top. After a brief visit to the oven, the pie emerges with beautiful, browned meringue and you feel all proud of yourself for building something so pretty. It’s a Prairie classic, this pie, with origins that go back to the 1920s — that’s where the flapper part comes in.
Flapper Pie was served in every café that graced small, Canadian Prairie towns. I imagine customers sitting at the counters of these cafés, savouring a slice with a good cup of coffee, talking about the weather, with little bits and bobs of gossip thrown in for good measure.
Flapper Pie is also known as the forgotten Prairie pie. Already popular before the Depression, it became particularly popular during those hard years when a few, simple, precious ingredients found in most kitchens could be turned into something delicious.
This pie has a loyal following among those who have tried it and loved it. This pie is economical, fairly simple to prepare and — with a shot of whiskey in the filling — I think those who loved it so long ago would love it even more now.
CRUST
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/4 cup + 2 Tbsp melted unsalted butter
3 Tbsp granulated sugar
Pinch of cinnamon (optional)
MERINGUE
1 Tbsp cornstarch
1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
3/4 tsp cream of tartar
5 large egg whites, at room temperature
1 tsp vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
VANILLA CUSTARD
1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 tsp salt
5 large egg yolks, at room temperature
21/2 cups whole milk
1/4 cup whipping cream
2 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
1 Tbsp rye whiskey, bourbon, brandy or rum
1 tsp vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract
STEPS
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the rack in the centre of the oven.
2. To make the crust, stir together the graham cracker crumbs, melted butter and sugar in a medium bowl. Add some cinnamon too, if you like. The mixture should hold its shape when you squeeze it in your hand. If it doesn’t, add a little bit of water until it does. Press the crumbs into the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch pie plate, reserving 1 Tbsp of crumbs for garnishing the pie. Bake for 15 minutes, until the crust is lightly browned and smells nutty. Remove it from the oven and let it cool on a wire rack.
3. While the crust is baking, make the meringue. Whisk the cornstarch with 1/3 cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring it to a simmer, whisking constantly. When it’s thick and translucent, remove the pan from the heat. Stir together all the sugar and cream of tartar in a small bowl. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the egg whites, vanilla and salt on medium speed until the whites are frothy. Increase the speed to medium-high and gradually beat in the sugar mixture one tablespoon at a time until soft peaks form. With the mixer still running at medium-high speed, add the cornstarch slurry one tablespoon at a time until stiff, shiny peaks form. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides and stick a finger into the meringue. If you don’t feel any sugar crystals when you rub your fingers together, the meringue is finished. Set it aside at room temperature while you make your filling.
4. To make the vanilla custard, whisk the sugar, cornstarch and salt together in a medium saucepan. The pan is still off the heat at this point. Whisk in the yolks, then gradually whisk in the milk and cream. You may need to use a plastic spatula to scrape the edges of the pan so that everything gets fully whisked. Place the saucepan over medium heat and cook for eight to 10 minutes, whisking constantly, until it’s thick. Be sure the custard simmers for at least two minutes — this will cook the cornstarch out. If cornstarch isn’t cooked long enough in a custard, the custard will have a starchy taste. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter, whiskey and vanilla. Pour the hot filling into the cooled crust.
5. Immediately spread the meringue on top of the filling, being sure to push it right up against the edge of the crust so it is attached and won’t shrink away while it bakes. Use the back of a soup spoon to create lovely peaks and swoops. Sprinkle the reserved tablespoon of graham crumbs on top. Bake the pie until the meringue is golden brown, 18-20 minutes. Remove the pie from the oven and let it cool on a wire rack until it’s at room temperature. Refrigerate, uncovered, for four hours before serving. This will set the custard. Slice and serve.
6. Flapper Pie is best eaten the day it’s made, but if there are leftovers, cover the pie with plastic and store it in the refrigerator for up to one day.
Notes: There’s no need to beat the meringue a second time before you spread it on the filling.
Recipe from All the Sweet Things, by Renée Kohlman (TouchWood Editions, 2017).
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