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MARK DEWOLF: Marching to a new beet

The lowly beet can be transformed in winter culinary delight by thinking of this vegetable in more than just its pickled form.
The lowly beet can be transformed in winter culinary delight by thinking of this vegetable in more than just its pickled form. - Christina Rumpf

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The days of beets coming only in pickled form have long since passed.

A mere decade ago, beet and feta salad was as ubiquitous as charcuterie boards are now on fine dining menus but the sweet, earthy flavours of beets are capable of so much more. Often maligned as tasting ‘dirty’, undoubtedly as a result of their underground origins, the earthy flavour of beets is a derivative of a natural compound called geosmin, which is also found in mushrooms and spinach.

If you find red beets too earthy, consider exploring golden beets or candy cane beets (named for their colour) which tend to be milder in flavour.

Five ways to enjoy beets:

  • Juiced - Beets deliver a variety of health benefits as they are rich in vitamin C, B9, folate, manganese, potassium and iron. Juice and combine with some honey and lemon juice for a healthy start to the day.
  • Raw - Raw beet has a wonderful crunch. It’s best enjoyed shredded. I recommend tossing with shredded cabbage or carrot and a light ginger vinaigrette.
  • Roasted - Roasting beets intensifies their sweetness and earthy flavours. Suitable on their own as a side dish, they also make the basis of a hearty winter salad. Add nuts for crunch and salty cheese such as feta to counterbalance the sweetness of the beets. Mix up the classic roast beet salad routine by adding grains such as quinoa to make it a main meal alternative.
  • Pickled - Pickled beets are classic for a reason as the tangy pickling liquid acts as a natural counterpoint to the sweetness of the beets. While white vinegar and pickling spices are the norm, consider using cider vinegar, fragrant spices such as cloves and allspice to add a little dimension to your pickled beets recipe.
  • Sauteed - Don’t throw out the leaves (greens). Beet greens are edible and, in fact, were for a long time the most eaten part of the vegetable. Place a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add a little olive oil, some garlic, and the beet greens. Sauté until the greens are soft and wilted. Finish with a splash of lemon juice and some salt and pepper.

Beet and Citrus Salad

The acidity of fresh oranges makes a natural counterpoint to the sweet, earthy flavours of roasted beets. - 123F
The acidity of fresh oranges makes a natural counterpoint to the sweet, earthy flavours of roasted beets. - 123F

 

6 Servings

Prep Time: Less than 30 minutes

Total Time: Less than 1 hour

Ingredients (salad):

  • 1 1/2 lb beets, leaves removed, scrubbed
  • 1 small bag arugula
  • 1 cup pecan pieces, toasted
  • 2 oranges, peeled, roughly chopped
  • Citrus vinaigrette*
  • Sesame seeds, for garnish

Directions: Preheat oven to 400 °F. Place beets in a baking pan and cover with foil. Roast beets at 400 °F for approximately 60 to 75 minutes. From 40 minutes onward check doneness of beets every 10 minutes. Beets are done when a skewer can be inserted easily into the center of the beet. Allow beets to cool at room temperature. When cool peel and chop. Place arugula, beets, orange pieces, and pecans in a bowl. Add vinaigrette and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl or platter. Garnish with sesame seeds, if desired.

*To make the vinaigrette whisk together 1/4 cup olive oil, juice and zest of 1 orange, 2 tablespoons cider vinegar, 1 shallot (minced), 1 tsp Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon honey.

Beet Slaw

Brighten up the winter dinner table with a slaw made from raw beets, carrots and pears.  - 123RF
Brighten up the winter dinner table with a slaw made from raw beets, carrots and pears. - 123RF

 

6 Servings

  • 3 red beets, peeled, julienned
  • 3 carrots, peeled, julienned
  • 3 pears, cored, peeled, julienned
  • Ginger citrus vinaigrette*
  • Black sesame seeds, optional

Directions: Place beets, carrots, and pears in a bowl. Add vinaigrette and toss. Sprinkle with sesame seeds (optional).

*To make the vinaigrette place 1 shallot (finely diced), 1 teaspoon freshly minced ginger, 1 finely chopped Thai chili, juice and zest of an orange, 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 1/3 cup olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil in a bowl. Whisk to combine.

Beet Risotto

Beets add richness and colour to risotto, a staple of Northern Italian cuisine.  - 123RF
Beets add richness and colour to risotto, a staple of Northern Italian cuisine. - 123RF

 

6 Servings

  • 4 1/2 cups vegetable stock
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 tsp ginger, minced
  • 1 1/2 cup arborio rice
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 1/2 cup Parmesan, grated
  • 3 medium beets, peeled, grated
  • 1/2 cup feta, crumbled
  • Fresh greens, for garnish

Directions: Place vegetable stock in a pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce to simmer. Place olive oil and butter in another pot set over medium-low heat. Add the onions and sweat until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and ginger, sauté until fragrant. Add the rice, raise heat to medium and stir for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the beets and a ladle of warm stock. When all the liquid has been absorbed, add another ladle of stock and repeat. Add grated Parmesan along with the final ladle of warm stock. When the liquid is fully absorbed, and the rice cooked (it should be slightly firm but not crunchy) serve warm in bowls. Top with crumbled feta and garnish with fresh greens.

Mark DeWolf is a connoisseur of all things food and drink. He's a creative director with SaltWire and local fare is his specialty. You can subscribe to his Follow a Foodie newsletter here.

  Watch Mark whip up seasonal plates in his video series, In a Jiffy, and go deeper with food trends and kitchen challenges weekly 

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