We can all thank John Montagu for a better lunch. As the fourth Earl of Sandwich, Montagu was too busy playing cards for a multi-course midday meal, opting instead to slap some roast beef between two slices of bread and, to put it mildly, started a trend on that fruitful day in 1762.
In today’s culinary world, the sandwich still reigns supreme at lunch. From a quick grab-and-go tuna on whole wheat to a Waygu beef dip at a Michelin-starred restaurant, the iterations of the Earl’s eats are endless, but one aspect remains constant — you can eat a sandwich and do something else at the same time.
This is why my dining companion (a fellow writer) and I opted to check out Baystar Cafe & Catering for a working lunch a few weeks back. We needed space to open our laptops, but also a real good munch.
The husband and wife culinary team behind Baystar Catering — Millie Foley and Kazuhiro Tamara — has been catering events in the St. John’s area since 2013, primarily working out of their home kitchen. But prior to that, the pair spent 17 years living in Tokyo, Japan, where they catered countless ex-pat functions.
They opened their new storefront cafe at 428B Torbay Rd., along with Chef Ian Smith, in November 2019 starting with lunch offerings but recently expanding into dinner and Saturday brunch.
We walked in around 11:30 a.m. and appeared to be the first customers of the day. Our server Judy, who is also Foley’s sister, sat us in a booth, told us the soup of the day (split pea) and had coffees ($2.50 each) to the table in no time flat.
The blue walls of the two-toned dining room are calming and with pops of colour from the brand new mid-Century modern furniture and artwork, the space feels open and inviting. We sipped our Coffee Matters brews while perusing the menu. There are more than a dozen sandwiches on the lunch menu at Baystar, ranging from classic clubs to open-faced smoked salmon, along with salads, soup and chilli.
I opted for Kazu’s panko crusted chicken sandwich ($16) from the “hot off the grill” section of the menu, while my dining companion went with the Pulled Pork ($16) found under “hot classics.”
When it comes to the making of a great sandwich, three things need to align: the bread, the fillings and the sauce must unite to great a symphonic parcel. Kazu’s chicken sandwich delivered. The soft sesame bun perfectly encased the schnitzel-like chicken, amped up with the spicy mayo and a surprising (and welcome) addition of smoked cheddar. One bite, all the flavours. The accompanying house cut French fries were hot and fresh, easily dippable with one hand (my other hand clearly occupied by the delicious sandwich).
My dining companion’s pulled pork also followed sandwich fundamentals with a fresh bun, luscious pulled pork bathed in house-made BBQ sauce and topped with tangy and chunky fresh coleslaw. By the time we were face and eyes into our sandwiches, the dining room had filled with office workers and ladies who lunch, which made for a great work lunch environment (and so did Judy who kept our coffee cups filled).
In today’s culinary world, the sandwich still reigns supreme at lunch. From a quick grab-and-go tuna on whole wheat to a Waygu beef dip at a Michelin-starred restaurant, the iterations of the Earl’s eats are endless, but one aspect remains constant — you can eat a sandwich and do something else at the same time.
For dessert, Judy suggested I head up to the front counter to check out the day’s offerings. I felt like a kid in a candy store scoping out the strawberry trifle, individual chocolate mousses and mountainous bread pudding before opting for the lemon cheesecake ($8). My fellow diner and I dove into the crunchy base, creamy cheese filling and lemon curd topper like our lives depended on it — I believe the term “lifechanging” was uttered.
Baystar has expanded its services and now expands the palates of its patrons. From the Asian noodle salad to the French beef dip, the lunch menu at this cafe is sure to please. The Earl would be proud.
THE DETAILS:
428B Torbay Rd.
St. John's, NL
(709) 576-2297
Hours: Monday-Wednesday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Thursday-Friday: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5-8 p.m.
Saturday: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Closed Sunday
Accessibility: Restaurant all one level with curbside ramp. Accessible washroom, no automatic doors.
Noise level: Low, with music.
Reservations: Yes
Take-away: Yes
Meal for two including coffee and dessert with tax and tip: $59
Gabby Peyton is a freelance food writer based in St. John’s. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram @gabbypeytoneats.
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