Q:
I have a 2006 Chevrolet Malibu with power rack and pinion steering. The steering is my problem. It is hard to turn when cold. I took it to a repair shop and they told me I need a new steering rack. Is it a big job to change? How many bolts are holding it? Do I need anything else — ie: flush the system, tie rod ends, or alignment?
Tom
A:
Hard steering when cold is a symptom of worn seals inside the steering rack. After changing the rack (the easiest and cheapest repair), the fluid in the power steering pump should be flushed.
Do this by topping up the reservoir with new fluid, putting the pressure hose in a drain bucket, and running the car for a few seconds. Stop the engine, refill the reservoir, and repeat until clean fluid comes out the pump.
Changing the rack is not difficult, but can be awkward. Start by removing the upper pinch bolt that holds the steering column to the rack beneath the driver’s side dash. Be sure to take the keys out so the steering wheel isn’t turned while the rack is out or the airbag wiring will be damaged.
Next, the outer tie rods are removed from the spindles, and the clamps that hold the rack to the engine cradle are removed. The fluid lines come off now.
Pull the rack away slightly from the engine cradle and remove the lower pinch bolt for the steering coupler shaft. You may have to remove a bolt from the transmission mount to gain a little bit more access. Now the rack can be removed out the left wheel well opening.
If you need to change the inner tie rods, remove only one side at a time. If you take both sides off, the internal rack shaft can slide out of position. Install everything in reverse order.
Fill the pump with fluid and rotate the steering back and forth to work air out of the system. You may have to top up the fluid several times over a few days as air escapes.
Some shops apply a vacuum to the reservoir as they operate the system to remove air in a few minutes. A wheel alignment is recommended to make sure the toe-in is correct and the steering wheel centered.
Q:
I have 2008 Toyota Camry which has a rattling catalytic converter. The sound resembles a can of marbles rattling under the car at start-up or acceleration. Replacement of the part at a dealer is very expensive but replacement at a muffler shop with after market part is somewhat cheaper. Is it possible to replace a converter with a resonator and would this have any effect on the engine or computer reporting system?
Sarah
A:
It is possible to replace the convertor with a resonator, however the car will no longer meet emission standards and could not be licensed in some parts of the country.
Vehicles that have OBD2 level emission systems, which include all 1996 and newer cars, a few earlier models, and some light trucks, require the convertor to be operating or codes will be set in the engine computer for a faulty convertor.
Your car can also set codes with the convertor removed for other systems because a certain amount of exhaust back pressure must be present for systems to work correctly. Without the convertor, the back pressure may be lower. It is probably easier and smarter to replace the convertor with another.
When the convertor is replaced, make sure the engine is operating correctly. The rattling sound is most likely broken material inside the convertor.
This typically only happens if there is external damage to the convertor or the engine is running too rich, which causes the converter to overheat and fail.
